The Scientific Importance of Cleansing: Why Does the Skin Need to Be Cleansed?
The deposits that accumulate on the skin throughout the day fall into four main categories: sebum (sebaceous gland secretion), environmental pollution particles (PM2.5, ozone, heavy metals), sunscreen residues, and dead epidermal cells. Failure to remove these deposits leads to pore congestion, oxidative stress, and disruption of skin pH balance.
Particularly in industrialised cities, air pollution particles adhere more prominently to the skin surface. These particles contribute to free radical production on the skin surface and activate matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), the collagen-degrading enzymes. An effective cleansing routine is the first line of defence against this damage.
The Most Common Face Washing Mistakes
The cleansing errors most frequently encountered in dermatology outpatient clinics are as follows:
- Using water that is too hot: Hot water dilates facial blood vessels, dissolves the lipid barrier, and predisposes the skin to redness. The ideal temperature is lukewarm — around 32–37°C.
- Over-scrubbing: Mechanical friction damages the stratum corneum. Gentle, circular motions using fingertips should be employed; if a face cloth or brush is used, apply very light pressure.
- Washing three or more times per day: Twice-daily washing (morning and evening) is the standard recommendation. Additional washes can disrupt sebum balance; oily skin types may produce more sebum following over-cleansing (reactive seborrhoea).
- Using a high-foaming / high-pH cleanser: Traditional soaps have a pH of around 9–10. Since skin pH sits in the 4.5–5.5 range, a significant pH spike occurs after each wash, and the barrier may take 1–2 hours to recover.
- Leaving the cleanser on the face for fewer than 10 seconds: Effective cleansing requires the product to remain on the face for at least 30–60 seconds. Rinsing off quickly does not adequately remove SPF and silicone-based products.
The Importance of pH-Balanced Cleansers
The skin's acid mantle provides the first line of barrier defence against pathogens such as Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans. High-pH cleansers that damage this mantle destabilise the skin microbiome. Research shows that individuals who wash with cleansers around pH 5.5 experience a marked reduction in atopic dermatitis symptoms.
When choosing a pH-balanced cleanser, look for formulas containing amphoteric or anionic plus non-ionic surfactant combinations. Products containing sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) carry high irritation potential, whereas those containing sodium lauroyl glutamate or cocamidopropyl betaine are considerably gentler.
The Double Cleansing Method
Who needs it?
Double cleansing has become the standard recommendation for the evening routine — particularly for those who use SPF, makeup, or sunscreen products throughout the day. The oil-based cleanser dissolves SPF residues containing mineral filters and silicones; the water-based cleanser that follows removes sweat, pollution, and water-based product residues.
Who does not need it?
Double cleansing is unnecessary in the morning routine — overnight accumulation is minimal. For those who do not wear makeup and prefer a lightweight SPF, a single cleansing step in the evening may also suffice. For dry and sensitive skin types, double cleansing every night carries a risk of barrier damage; these individuals may be advised to double cleanse three to four times per week.
Cleanser Type Comparison Table
| Cleanser Type | Formulation | Best Suited For | Not Suitable For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gel / Foam | Predominantly anionic surfactant | Oily, acne-prone, combination | Dry, sensitive, atopic |
| Cream / Milk | Emulsifier + oil-based | Dry, mature, sensitive | Very oily, acne-prone |
| Oil (Cleansing Oil) | Botanical oil + emulsifier | All types (first step) | Not as a standalone except for dry skin |
| Micellar Water | Micelle structures + water | Sensitive, rosacea, dry | Heavy makeup removal (alone) |
| Balm (Solid Oil) | Rich oil + wax component | Dry, mature, winter skin | Oily, acne-prone |
| Powder / Enzymatic | Papain / bromelain enzyme | Normal, combination, dull | Active acne, sensitive, rosacea |
Correct Face Washing Technique: Step by Step
- Wash your hands first — clean hands are essential before cleansing the face.
- Dampen the face with lukewarm water (32–37°C).
- Dispense a hazelnut-sized amount of cleanser and lather it in your palms.
- Starting from the forehead, apply using circular, upward motions for 30–60 seconds.
- Do not forget the neck and chin area.
- Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water — check particularly around the hairline and under the chin.
- Pat dry gently with a soft towel — never rub the face.
- Apply toner or serum immediately (within 30 seconds) — before the skin begins to dry.
Washing Frequency and Cleanser Use in the Morning Routine
Is a facial cleanser necessary in the morning routine? This is a debated topic. Most dermatologists argue that rinsing with lukewarm water alone is sufficient in the morning — overnight accumulation on the face is minimal, and it may be advantageous not to immediately wash off active ingredients applied at night (retinoids, peptides). Those with oily or combination skin may prefer a mild cleanser in the morning due to overnight perspiration; for dry and sensitive skin types, water alone is recommended.
What to Do After Cleansing
A feeling of "tightness" after cleansing is a sign of barrier damage, not genuine cleanliness. Cleansers that cause this sensation are over-dissolving the skin's lipids and should be replaced. A correct cleanser should leave the skin feeling "clean but comfortable."
Immediately after cleansing — within 30 seconds to prevent moisture loss — a moisturiser or toner should be applied. This "damp skin layering" application method noticeably improves the absorption of subsequent products.
Cleansing in Special Situations
After Exercise
There is no urgent need to wash the face immediately after exercise when the skin is sweating — sweat evaporation in areas away from the body does not cause significant accumulation. However, cleansing with lukewarm water within 30 minutes after exercise is recommended; especially if sunscreen is present, double cleansing should be performed.
Evening Cleansing Before Bed
Cleansing is the most critical step in the night-time routine. Going to sleep without removing the SPF, makeup, and pollution accumulated throughout the day accelerates pore congestion, comedogenic buildup, and premature skin ageing. Research has shown that TEWL (transepidermal water loss) increases significantly on nights when cleansing is skipped.
Cleansing Protocol at Virtuana Clinic
During skin care consultations at Virtuana Clinic, patients receive personalised cleanser recommendations based on individual skin type analysis. A bespoke cleansing protocol is developed following pH measurement, sebum analysis, and TEWL assessment. The cleansing protocol is reviewed and adjusted specifically before and after medical aesthetic procedures (laser, chemical peel, mesotherapy).
This article is for informational purposes only. Please consult a qualified physician for treatment decisions.